Into the Heart of the Jungle: A Guide to Visiting the Remote Maya Ruins of Calakmul
Deep in the heart of the Yucatan Peninsula’s jungle, lie some of Mexico’s most remote and hidden Maya ruins – Calakmul – a place I explore in this Calakmul Mexico travel guide.”. Renowned for their abandoned location within the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, the ruins of Calakmul offer a unique experience to visitors who can explore the ruins and wildlife while feeling like true explorers, as they are often alone.
How to Get to Calakmul Mexico
The adventurous journey to Calakmul begins upon your arrival at the Biosphere Nature Reserve, located about 55 kilometers west of the small town Xpujil. The first road section is a well-developed highway, but as you reach the entrance to Biosphere, the road becomes less developed with occasional potholes. The last 60 kilometers to the archaeological site are navigable with a normal rental car, and the drive takes about two hours.
The road becomes narrower for the last 30 kilometers, and the number of potholes increases slightly. The journey itself is an adventure, and you may encounter wildlife along the way. Although jaguars and pumas may be present in the area, they are not commonly seen. Nonetheless, it’s suggested to stick to the speed limit of 30 km/h and be cautious while driving.
Calakmul Mexico Travel Guide – Planning Your Visit
The ruins of Calakmul are among the largest archaeological sites in Mexico and this Calakmul Mexico travel guide helps you understand what to expect.
On the official website of the ruins and within the site, you can find three different options for exploring Calakmul:
- Short Route
- Medium Route
- Long Route
The first option is the “Recorrido Corto” (Short Route), which takes about 40 minutes to complete (without any photo stops) and includes the Gran Plaza and the “Estructura I” and “Estructura II”.
Hint: When we visited Calakmul in November 2022, the area of the “Gran Acropolis” was closed. Therefore, we were not able to do the “Medio” (Medium) and “Largo” (Long) options. It still took us about 4 hours to complete the short tour as we also climbed several pyramids, took photos, and did some smaller breaks in between.
The Medium Route includes all the structures from the Short Route plus the “Juego de Pelota” (the football field) and several smaller structures around it. According to our research, it takes about 2 hours to complete this route (again: without any stops).
The Long Route includes all the points of interest from the Short and Medium Routes, as well as the Gran Acropolis complex. It takes approximately 2.5 hours to complete this route, according to the website (without any stops).
Welcome to the jungle at Calakmul!
The feeling you get when arriving at Calakmul is unlike any other ruins. The small path, surrounded by overgrown trees and roots, guides you to the site. Every now and then, small windows open up between the trees, revealing glimpses of the surrounding jungle landscapes.
Keep your eyes and ears open, as rustling leaves can often be a good indication of nearby wildlife. At Calakmul, you can witness a diverse range of wildlife, from wild birds like toucans and peacock turkeys to spider monkeys, and if you are fortunate (or unfortunate), jaguars and pumas.
It is almost impossible to miss the many spider monkeys, which call Calakmul their home. The treetops constantly swing around and bow down under the continuous climbing and jumping monkeys. But be careful: do not stay beneath the monkeys, otherwise you might get an unwanted souvenir from them.
While we were observing the spider monkeys, they suddenly scared up two toucans resting in the trees. We felt lucky to witness such a stunning and special experience of seeing toucans in their natural habitat. The wildlife in Calakmul is breathtaking and one of the many reasons to visit these ruins on your Yucatan road trip.
Explore the ruins of Calakmul
One of the highlights of Calakmul is the view from the top of the ruins. The vastness of the deep green jungle suddenly lies at your feet and stretches as far as the horizon. The border to Guatemala is not far away, but it is hidden within the jungle.
Estructura II
The highest building at the Calakmul ruins is the “Estructura II”, which is located at the south of the Central Plaza. Once you reach the top of the 55-meter high pyramid, you will not only be looking down on around 142 steps, but also a wide sea of lush green jungle. From the top, you can see several smaller structures peeking out of the seemingly endless green landscape like small islands.
To this day, only a small portion of the approximately 6,500 buildings have been consolidated or restored. The exploration and restoration efforts are still ongoing and are unlikely to be completed any time soon.
The ruins of Calakmul may not be the most impressive Mayan ruins in terms of architecture, but their location in the middle of the forest and the feeling of being an explorer make the experience extra special.
How to prepare your visit to Calakmul
Calakmul’s location in the middle of the rainforest offers many benefits, such as a lower number of tourists, no vendors at the site (as is the case with Chichen Itza), and a true “explorer” atmosphere. However, there is a small disadvantage to consider: there are no nearby dining or drinking options. The nearest facilities are about 40 km away from the site. Therefore, visitors should ensure that they bring enough food and water to sustain themselves during their visit.
Furthermore, for your visit to Calakmul, you should pack the following items:
- Sunscreen for sun protection
- Mosquito repellent spray (a lot of it!)
- Long pants to protect against mosquitoes and other insects
- A rain jacket in case of unexpected rain
- Hiking boots or other sturdy shoes for walking on uneven terrain
- A hat, preferably one that provides shade from the sun
- Sufficient water to stay hydrated
- Snacks to keep you energized throughout the visit
Opening Hours Calakmul
Monday to Sunday from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
How much time to plan for a visit at Calakmul
The recommendation for a visit to Calakmul would be to plan for at least 3-4 hours, particularly if you intend to climb some of the ruins. Please note that this estimated time does not include the travel time to the ruins, which can take up to 2 hours from Xpujil.
Hint, if you travel from Bacalar or Tulum to Xpujil: There is a one-hour time difference between the two states of Quintana Roo and Campeche. So you “gain” one hour.
Admission fee to Calakmul
The entrance fee is 230 Pesos per person and is split into two parts. The first part of 150 Pesos is paid at the first entrance, and the remaining 80 Pesos are paid at the entrance of the site. Keep in mind that this fee is subject to change, so it’s best to check the official website or confirm with your travel guide before your visit.
Where to stay, when visiting Calakmul
Xpujil is the best base when visiting Calakmul Mexico.
The closest city to the Calakmul ruins is Xpujil, a rather small town with some tourist infrastructure such as hotels and restaurants. We can recommend the “Maya Balam” hotel, which is simple but clean and located a little bit off the main street.
Where to eat, when visiting Calakmul
We highly recommend a visit to “La Pizzeta” for delicious pizza and great service in Xpujil. This restaurant is located on the main street, right in the heart of the town.
